Sunday, September 02, 2012

Turkish Delights


True to my yearning to discover newer corners of the world, the destination for LFC Trip 2012 was decided as Turkey, the Eurasian country. After all, not often during our travel research, do we (‘V’&‘I’) come across regions with so many unheard of names. 

Our week long trip began with a day’s halt at Istanbul, the economic capital of the land. And what a start it turned out to be. Istanbul being a transcontinental city – you could cruise from the European side of the city to the Asian side in about half an hour – has a perfect cultural mix of both the races. Nestled between the Black Sea and the Marmara Sea, it is a charming city with a rich cultural history dating back to 660 BC during the Byzantine empire. The present version of the city is a witness of the several invasions and civilisations that it has seen from the ancient Persians, Athenians, Romans to the more recent Ottomans. Some interesting attractions like the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia Museum, the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar, combined with a Mediterranean weather and food made it a perfect start for the holiday.

Next on course was Ankara, the political capital. It was a brief stay here with respects paid to Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the Father of modern Turkey, at the Anitkabir Mausoleum, before proceeding on to the more interesting Cappadocia.  The drive to Cappadocia was, by itself, a feast to the eyes with some mind-boggling landscapes and vast expanses en-route.


This destination, Cappadocia, is a pre-historic natural wonder situated in the eastern Anatolian region of Turkey. It is a hilly region with several volcanic peaks containing remnants of ancient settlements dating back to the pre-Hellenistic era (Persians, Hittites, Greeks) followed by the Armenians during the Byzantine era. The place is a living example of several under-ground cities used by early Christians as hiding places before Christianity became an accepted religion. These settlements/ under-ground cities were basically houses and churches with ventilation chimneys, abbeys, water-wells, wine production places, etc., that were carved out of the several volcanic rocks of all shapes and sizes in the region.  A visit to such ancient settlements only makes us wonder the evolution of civilisations offering us all the comforts that we are blessed with in our modern societies.


Before we thought we had, perhaps, covered the most exceptional place of the tour, came Pamukkale, our next halt.

Pamukkale (“Cotton Castle” in Turkish) is a city with several hot water springs and travertines of mineral deposits, particularly lime-stone, formed by a process of precipitation of such carbonate mineral deposits. This text book definition apart, the place is akin to one huge spa with several geo-thermal springs with medicinal properties, making it look like fluffy heaps of cotton. Hence, the name ‘Cotton Castle’ or ‘Cotton Fortress’, as is known in the tourist circuit. Unarguably, our 2 day stay here was the most relaxing of the week-long holiday. This white-castle region is situated at the top of the ancient Greco-Roman city of Hierapolis which is a UNESCO World Heritage Centre by itself with several ancient ruins of the city whose other attractions include a huge amphitheatre and the Cleopatra swimming pool.

After yet another series of ‘Wows’ of the awe-struck beauty, we resumed our journey to visit the next wonder that was probably the most familiar of the names in the itinerary.

Aphrodisias is the city named after Aphrodite, the Greek god of love, with the chief attractions here being the Temple of Aphrodite (which is presently in ruins) and the Stadium. 
The Stadium, measuring approx. 890 ft. by 200 ft., is one of the best preserved and largest, ancient architectural structures in the Mediterranean and was used for athletic events and Roman style gladiatorial games, until it was destroyed by an earthquake.  

From here, we proceeded to the coastal, port-town of Kusadasi located on the sea-side Aegan coast of Turkey.  It had the perfect resort-town kind of a feel to it with a bird’s eye view of a few Greek islands en route. This was the halt town from where we visited Ephesus, the last destination of our tour.

Ephesus is, again, an ancient, classical Greco-Roman city with a history dating back to 1st Century BC. Located in the province of Izmir, a beach coastal town, the City is most famous for the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. It was a structure built and dedicated to Artemis, the Greek goddess, and is in ruins now after a series of building, re-building and eventual destruction. The ruins of the Library of Celsus and the huge, open air amphitheatre which was again used for Roman style gladiatorial combats were amazing sights to behold for a life time. 

By the time we were done visiting all these unheard of places and got ready to get back to Istanbul to catch the flight back home, we were still left in a state of amazement, marvelling at the very thoughts of all those jaw-dropping places that we had been to.

In addition to the Lokum and Baklava (“Turkish Delights”/Desserts) we picked up for folks back home and the souvenirs to keep our memories of the trip evergreen, these are some of the most different experiences I was fascinated by, during the tour:-
  • Experienced Hailstones for the first time in my life
  • Covered two continents within a gap of half an hour
  • Survived only on fresh Mediterranean fruits for days together
  • Saw day-light brightness till about 8 pm
  • Visited never heard of terrains like a city full of rock formations, travertines and mineral    deposits
  • Visited a city in ruins (with a promise to visit Hampi, the ruined Indian city, next)
  • Went to a building that has been both a church and a mosque in the past, and is neither now (Hagia Sophia).
Indeed, Turkey, is as exotic as it can get and a land of contrasts. It truly bridges the Eastern & the Western world. 


Friday, March 30, 2012

Malaysia......Truly Asia!!



Kuala Lumpur – a city that has been in my bucket list for long; got to knock it off my list, thanks to a Conference that I was nominated for by my organisation.  And a trip all by myself (I was the sole nominee) meant it was time to wake up the nomad in me. During my short stay of about 5 days, I managed to do quite a bit of hopping on and off (literally so), at most of the city-attractions, indulged in some culinary treats from Saravana Bhavan/Sangeetha’s and also experience the local Malay arts and crafts at Pasar Seni – all this entirely through their immaculately maintained rail networks. Living in Mumbai, I had almost forgotten to realise what it was like to have a useable public transport system; so, that left me impressing over their infrastructure and the way the Malays had maintained their city in such a tourist-friendly manner.

Of course, a critical difference between Mumbai and KL that was pointed out to me during my short stay, are the levels of safety, more so for solo-women travellers. Again, living in Mumbai, I should be forgiven for assuming ‘safe place to return back to the hotel late nights’ as a taken-for-granted parameter. Apparently, I was incorrect. Some of my conversations with locals revealed some truly scary recent instances of how infamous the city was owing to bag/chain snatchers, robbers and human-traffickers, even in heart-of-the-city locations. While such instances are common across almost all countries including India, even the thought of such occurrences in a foreign land can be treacherous.
However, what struck me most was not the magnificence of the twin towers or the Batu Murugan temple; nor the spot-on monorail and LRT rail networks; nor the co-existence of greenery and infrastructural developments; nor the omnipresent sky scrapers that could cause neck sprains, but a short conversation with a couple of local Malay Tamilians about their life in general and the prevailing under-current of local Malays Vs Tamils that seemed to be boiling below the surface of what seemed to be a smooth co-existence of various ethnic groups and races. It was sad to hear stories of physical abuses and tortures that the Tamils had mentioned that they were subjected to and the apparent inequalities in job opportunities between the two races, both being Malay ‘Citizens’. As a local put it in the vernacular language – “இலங்கையில ஒரேயடியா செத்தோம்; இங்க கொஞ்சம் கொஞ்சமா செத்துக்கிட்டு இருக்கோம்”(“It was genocide at one go, in Srilanka – it is gradual out here!”). Curiously, since the Tamil race had settled in the Malay region generations ago, they have even lost out on the right to call any other country their own and do not have any roots in India which could help them come back freely from a state of unhappy existence. While I am no expert on the history of Malay Tamils, ethnic clashes and racial discrimination in a bustling mega-metropolis that could easily be ranked in the top 5 in Asia if not the world, only makes one wonder what could be a real meaning of ‘modernism’ - is it those trillion dollar investments that make it what it is today or is it a smooth acceptance of racial differences by citizens and the Govt. alike. In a way, it is a lesson to several of us, including yours truly, who migrate looking for greener pastures elsewhere far from our homelands instead of creating economic opportunities and developing our respective origins.

Vibrant streets and culture, never-ending night markets, commonly seen rich-poor divide,   cosmopolitan crowd (China town, Little India...),  a fascination for the West - Indeed, KL stands for many things “truly Asia”!